The fashion industry evolves as the virus is forced to rethink


Paris (AP) — The pandemic has caused billions of dollars in problems due to the structure of the European fashion industry, canceling runway shows and instead allowing brands to display their designs digitally.

Now, hoping that it will return to near normal by the end of the year, the industry is asking what it will look like when fashion is dusting and suffering from a healthy foot again.

The answer varies. Some believe that the Fashion Week format, which has been in use since the 1940s, will be radically rethought. Others believe that Asia will strengthen the enormous interests of influence. Many see brands seeking greater sustainability to appeal to younger customers.

Gildas Minvier, an economist at the Francais de la Mode Institute in Paris, said:

“European luxury is already recovering, because it’s globalized and thanks to Asian buyers. They spent on European brands,” Minbier said.

Asian buyers are still considered a largely untapped market, but their wealth has recently surpassed that of Westerners. China, in particular, was already seen as a driving force for global growth in the luxury industry, even before the pandemic broke out. The faster the virus is contained, the stronger the virus is placed.

“In the next 50 years, money will come from the east, as it was from the west for the last 50 years,” said Long Nguyen, chief fashion critic at The Impression.

This allowed us to see the designer’s aesthetics more content with Chinese tastes.

Another trend strengthened during the pandemic is the decision to abandon the enthusiastic pace of the runway calendar show.

Overnight, these transformed from live, face-to-face sensory experiences to pre-recorded digital displays released online, as the virus was torn from east to west around the world. Many have predicted the devastation of the industry, but homes have proven to be surprisingly resilient. This is because the system has already postponed the shift.

Since the advent of social media, brands have become much less dependent on traditional advertising media such as fashion magazines. Currently, they are creating their own online channels, avoiding luster, to bring out their designs.

“Each brand is a media entity in its own right,” Nguyen said, calling the industry “obsolete.”

In addition, as buyers themselves went online, homes inevitably became significantly less dependent on traditional retailers such as department stores.

Some homes are working better than expected in the new digital format. Smaller brands in particular welcome a break from the staging of runway shows, which can be astronomically expensive with relatively small profits.

Julian Forney, a haute couture designer in Paris, said the virus has caused him to question “whether a fashion show is really needed” in the first place.

The virus has seen many brands, including the French luxury giant Kering Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen and Bottega Veneta, break traditional calendars and display new collections both creatively and economically. Saint Laurent started the trend last year and headlined to quit Paris Fashion Week to “control the pace”.

The advantage of these brands is that you can use the collection and date on your own terms without getting the attention of other brands at the same time. However, many nostalgic critics, buyers, and consumers claim that there is no substitute for the physical runway experience.

Pascal Morand, Executive President of the Paris Fashion Federation, said:

“But this is not the end of Fashion Week. After all, they are all waiting to return to the runway and back to their physical experience.”

Stella McCartney, who unplanned an autumn collection last month, emphasized how ridiculous climate change is sadly, so the industry is serious about seasonal relevance “even before COVID.” He said he was questioning.

“There was a moment of the beginning of the blockade. There were no planes in the sky and we could hear the voice of birds. Everyone was talking about nature regaining its legitimate place,” she added. Expressed dissatisfaction with the lifestyle. It requires thousands of kilometers of travel per year.

McCartney said the industry as a whole has a sense that brands must embrace sustainability “to survive,” especially to attract younger, more environmentally friendly consumers.

An example of such eco-thinking is reducing waste in collections. Luxury giants have been criticized for burning unused or unsold luxury goods in the past.

And McCartney also doesn’t seem to think this will be the end of the runway show.

“I don’t think we’ll throw away today’s place, and I don’t think we’ll reject yesterday’s place,” she said. “It took me a while, but I miss the last energy. I miss the show, the community, the way clothes look and move in real life, the expression of the model, the sound. That’s art.”

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Adamson reported from Leeds, England.

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